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3 Simple Ways Keeping Your Spending Organized

: Image via Wikipedia

On of the biggest problems we had with controlling our finances was knowing where the money went. Have you ever said “Honey, do you realize we spent $900 eating out this month?” I have. The amount we spent on some categories was mind-blowing. Maybe some people don’t see $900 at restaurants, $400 on clothes, or $300 on books and movies as a problem, but I do and it was ridiculous! We’ve dialed back hard on the unnecessary spending and the first step was to understand our spending habits. That was a painful self-examination.

Here’s what we did:

Have a Budget. This is quite simply the most basic step in organizing your finances. If you don’t have a budget, you don’t have a plan for where your money will go. Without a plan, your money goes on about its business without consulting you. Your money does not like you. It will do its level best to get as far away from you as fast as possible. A good budget is like shackles for your cash. Never underestimate the value of a good pair of shackles.
Use a Spending Journal. Before we went cash-only, I was a no-cash spender. Every purchase was with my debit card and every receipt went into my wallet. That’s a disorganized, but effective spending journal. When it was time to balance the checkbook, I could look through my receipts and no exactly where the money went. It was nice to have a chance to wave good-bye and send it a postcard as it ran away from home. Other people use a small notebook or even–for the truly cutting-edge–the register that comes in a box of checks. Whatever system you choose, make sure you use it. If you don’t know where your money has gone in the past, how can you plan for the future?

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Use a Ledger. Most people call this the checkbook register. I use Quicken. About once per month, I sit down with any receipts we’ve generated and the list of transactions on the bank website and I balance the checkbook. I note everything we’ve spent, flag everything that has cleared the bank, and make sure all of the numbers match. This gives me a chance to review everything we’ve had incoming and outgoing and address any abnormalities while there is still a chance to get the bank to address problems.

How do you track your spending?

Update: This post has been included in the Carnival of Personal Finance.

Lost Wallet: What to Do Before It’s Gone

Finance

The Costanza Wallet — Image by shareski via Flickr

I’ve never been mugged. Hopefully, fate has decided that I never will be. Given my habits, it is far more likely that my money clip will fall out of my wallet without me noticing.

That’s a significant piece of my life. That would mean I lost my driver’s license, my debit card, my business credit card, my insurance cards, my carry permit, and the only credit card I carry.

What happens when you lose your wallet? You go to the DMV and get your driver’s license replaced. You call your credit card companies and ask them to invalidate your credit card numbers and send you new cards. You write off the missing cash and hope you don’t need the business cards that you tucked in behind the photo of your great-grand-uncle’s neighbor’s cousin’s mistress’s puppy.

How do you reach your credit card company? You take the card out of your wallet, flip it over, and call the number on the back. But you lost your wallet? What now?

Do you have every statement, that comes with the phone numbers you need to call? I don’t. At this moment, I do not have the phone number for the bank that issues the debit card for my Health Savings Account. I don’t actually know who issued the card. I don’t even know who I would call to report the card missing.

How do you prepare for that? What can you do do make your life much less miserable when your wallet walks aways with a pickpocket, or falls out of your pocket while you’re tooling down the highway on the back of a motorcycle doing 100 miles per hour, dodging the police and winking at the innocent passerby rocking out to really bad back-room country western music in a late model orange convertible? (That’s probably just me.)

How would you prepare for a lost wallet?

There is an 6 step solution to remove all of the worry about someone finding your wallet and using your credit card to fund a Russian adult chat membership, the only site where basement-dwelling losers can talk to someone pretending to be the cooperative mail-order bride they are about to order.

Take everything that matters out of your wallet.
Find a copy machine or a scanner.
Put everything from your wallet on the scanner.
Scan it.
Flip the cards over and scan again.
Either print the scan and put it in a fire-proof safe, or encrypt it and email it to someone you trust who does NOT live in the same house you do. If your house burns down, you want to have access to the files.

Depending on the number of things you keep in your wallet, you might have to repeat the steps a few times to get it all copied. You definitely want to copy both sides, so you can have the card numbers and the phone numbers saved.

Now, if you lose your wallet, you have all of the information you need to deal with the problem and get those cards cancelled.

How do you track your cards and contact information?

Thug-cenomics

Finance

Recently, a friend of mine told me about a friend of his who was attacked by a flash mob. This was a negative flash mob, not the fun kind.

She was walking down the street with her phone in her hand when around a dozen thugs surrounded her, knocked her down, and stole her phone before running off.

With me being the person I am with the hobbies and side-hustles I have, certain things came to mind.

This is why standard capacity magazines should never be outlawed. Sometimes, a six-shot revolver just isn’t enough.
Before anyone complains about #1, when you are beaten to the ground by a pack of violent thugs, the length of your life is up to them, not you. They are the problem.
Walking down the street while talking on your cell phone is not the best way to stay aware of your surroundings. Would she have been able to get away if she had been paying more attention to the thugs on the corner than her conversation? I have no idea, but it’s certain that talking on a cell phone is a distraction.
Walking down the street with an expensive gadget in your hand is asking for trouble.
What were these thugs thinking? Even a $500 cell phone turns into a $50 mp3 player the moment the victim gets to a real phone to call the cell phone company. That’s a generous $50 payout. With 12 people, that’s means everyone gets $4.10 as their share. The federal poverty level is just under $12,000 per year, which means they would have to do this 8 times a day, just to get to barely enough money to survive.
In Minnesota, this is, at a minimum, 3rd degree assault, which carries a possible 5 year sentence and $10,000 fine. That’s 8 public attempts to throw away 5 years of their lives, every day. How can they consider this a good risk.

It was pointed out to me that this thuggery is probably made possible by direct government sponsorship, in the form of welfare checks, so this is probably just a way to pass the time. Somebody should tell those brutes that welfare checks stop when you’re in prison.

So I’m considering launching a basic economics class for thugs and street rats. I want to teach them how to do a risk assessment by comparing the level of loot to the possible outcomes of getting caught.

Possible test questions include:

I could stab that guy for the $10 in his wallet, but if I get caught, I’m facing 40 years in prison. Should I do it?
My flash mob makes $50 per phone we steal from defenseless women. Would my buddies rat me out to avoid 5 years of hard time, and do I consider that worth $4?
Meth makes the faces of my customers dissolve from the inside before killing them. Is it possible to build a sustainable business based on slowly killing my customers? What marketing skills do I need to develop to replace the natural attrition of poisoning my customers?
Meth labs explode. Is it better to hire my own junkies, or should I outsource that risk and take a smaller profit margin?
This is a shall issue carry permit state. There are nearly 100,000 carry permit holders here. That’s 1.87% of the total population and 2.6% of the adult population. Statistically, how many people can my friends and I jump before getting justifiably shot? Is that number times the $4 profit considered a good return on investment? What would the ROI have to be to make this a worthwhile career choice?

Anybody know any violent thugs willing to beta test my new class offering?

Selling Your Car

Finance

: English: Jalopy car in Joshua Tree National Park in Hidden Valley Campground (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

When it’s time to replace your car, most people focus on the new car, instead of the old, but that is ignoring real money. Your old car–unless it has disintegrated–still has value. Sometimes, it’s just time to ask yourself, “When should I sell my car?”

When you’re looking to sell your car (like with We Will Buy Your Car), you generally have several options:

Tow & crush. If your car has been wrecked, doesn’t run, or is just old and beat up, you may be stuck with calling a junkyard and accepting $50 for them to pick up your car and crush it for scrap.
Trade it in. This is probably the least hassle, but–other than #1–doesn’t pay well. Dealerships are willing to pay something under what they will get at a wholesale auction, which is quite a bit less than the blue book value.
Sell it yourself. Now you’re thinking, “He’s going to buy my car! Oh, bother.” It can be a pain, but it’s also the best way to get a decent price for your wheels.

When you sell your car, there are a few things to keep in mind, much like when you sell something on Craigslist.

Don’t be alone. There are bad people in the world, but they don’t like witnesses. Bad things are much less likely to happen if you have company.
Know your price. Specifically, know three price: your dream price, the price that would make you happy, and the absolute lowest price you are willing to accept. Make sure you figure these numbers out ahead of time. Know what you are comfortable with before it comes time to close the deal.
Check IDs. The buyer is going to want to test-drive your car. That’s fine, but you want to make sure you know who is driving off in your car. “Officer, Sumdood took my car. He was wearing jeans.” That won’t get your car back.
Clean it up. Get the car detailed before you show it to a potential buyer. A sparkling-clean car will almost always bring in a few hundred extra dollars. It’s well worth the expense.

Following this plan should make the sale go as smoothly as possible and bring you the most possible money.

Readers, what have you done to dispose of an old car?

This is a sponsored post written to provide some insight into the world of used car retail.

As evil as credit cards are, most adults have one. Have you ever wondered what percentage of those people know the details of[ad name=”inlineright”] their credit card agreement, or even what all of the terms mean?

Here’s a quick list of the terms and their definitions.

Average daily balance – This is the balance most card companies use to calculate your interest. They add the balance each day and divide it by the number of days in the billing cycle. This number times the interest rate is (roughly) the interest you have to pay.
Annual Percentage Rate(APR) – This is the interest rate expressed as the interest accrued in one year. The actual calculation is much more complicated.
Balance transfer – If you’ve ever paid your VISA with your Mastercard, you’ve done a balance transfer. These often have a great introductory rate and a lousy permanent rate.
Cardholder agreement – This is the contract that defines all of the terms of your card: interest, default consequences, payment terms, and everything else. You should never sign for a card without reading and understanding this document.
Charge-back – If you dispute a charge on your card, the issuer may issue a charge-back, and take the money back from the merchant to return to you.
Credit line – This is the amount you are able to charge. You should fear this number and stay as far away from it as possible.
Default – When you stop paying your card, you become delinquent. If it goes on too long, you will be in default. Read: screwed. This is when they crank your interest rate to the sky and cut your limit to match your balance. It’s also the point that affects your credit rating.
Due date – This is the day which, if you miss it, will cause you to acquire an extra $15-39 fee for the privilege of misreading your calendar. Always pay your bill before this date.
Finance charge – This is the actual interest accrued for the billing period. This is money you are paying for the privilege of borrowing the rest of the money. Next month, you’ll pay a finance charge on this money, too. Yay!
Grace period – For most cards worth owning, you get 20-25 days before the issuer starts charging interest. The best way to manage your card is to pay it off completely twice a month. That way, you’ll never use up your grace period and never pay a cent of interest.
Introductory rate – Many cards will offer a crazy-low interest rate for six months to lure you in…like crack. They’ll get you hooked, then raise the rate and force you to charge new toys at the higher rate. Ideally, you’ll never carry a balance, so you’ll never have to worry about the introductory rate.
Minimum payment – If debt has an evil heart, this is it. If you pay nothing but the minimum required payment, you will be in debt for the rest of your life. Always pay more, even if it’s just an extra $20.
Over-the-limit fee – If you ignore your credit limit and keep spending, you’ll get hit with another $15-39 fee for the privilege of not controlling your irresponsible impulses.
Periodic rate – This is your APR expressed in relation to a specific time frame, usually as a daily periodic rate. For example, if your interest rate is 18%, your daily periodic rate is 18/365 or 0.0493%
Pre-approved – When you get a pre-approved card, you are actually just getting a notice that you have been pre-screened as not being too much of a deadbeat for that particular card. You will still have a full credit check before the card is issued.
Secured card – If you’ve got lousy credit, sometimes your only choice to repair it is to get a prepaid card. You give the company $200 and they will let you charge $200. They are almost always loaded with fees and are usually a very bad deal, but if it’s the only game in town…?
Universal default – Sometimes, if you default on one card, every other card you have decides to gang up on you, because your “risk profile” has changed. Yet more proof of the evil that is credit-card debt.
Variable interest rate – Some card tie your rate to the Prime interest rate, so when that changes, your rate does, too.

Did I miss any terms?

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