What would your future-you have to say to you?
The no-pants guide to spending, saving, and thriving in the real world.
What would your future-you have to say to you?
This is a guest post written by Jason Larkins. He writes at WorkSaveLive – a blog he started to help people change the way they think about their finances, careers, and lives.
Who doesn’t like to buy stuff?
Okay…I’m sure there are a few of you out there that take pride in never buying a new “toy,” but I know personally that I LOVE stuff!
Not to the point that I make dumb financial decisions that jeopardizes my family’s financial well-being, but I do have that natural American desire to have nice things and to be able to do fun stuff!
If you’re in the market to buy a Big-Ticket item (i.e. a new car, TV, or other technology gadget), what are some of the things you should be thinking through as you contemplate making the purchase?
The first mistake people make is buying on impulse. The massive majority of Americans don’t even have a thought process when it comes to buying toys, so that’s why I decided to dedicate a post on a few things you should ponder.
1. Avoid spending extra for add-ons, or features, that you’re never going to use.
It is easy to get an appliance or technology gadget that has a ton of amazing features on it – but why pay for them if you won’t use them?
Consider buying the item that may be a step below what you’re looking at.
I know that I personally love the thought of having an Ipad 2, but am I really going to utilize it to it’s full capabilities?
Probably not!
It doesn’t mean I shouldn’t have one, but it does mean I can look at the older Ipad and save some money. Or, I can avoid the purchase altogether if I don’t think it’s going to be worth the money.
2. Be cautious with offers such as “no money down,” “90 days same as cash,” or “12 months interest free.”
Nearly 88% of the “90 days same as cash” offers are actually converted to payments because the purchaser couldn’t pay off the bill before the offer was up.
3. Don’t buy it just because it’s the cheapest.
Always be sure to do research prior to your purchase – check consumer reviews and product reviews. Saving money may not be worth it if the product breaks down quickly or doesn’t have the functionality that you’re looking for.
1. Prepare for large purchases and pay cash for them.
If you can’t pay cash for the item, then there is a good chance that you can’t afford it.
Determine how much money you will need to spend on a particular item and save up for it! This is going to help you in a couple of ways:
2. Buy at the end of the month, or at the end of the year!
Consumers rarely think of this, but it’s important for you to know that every store (and store manager) has monthly/yearly sales to report.
If they’re wanting to close out the month/year strong, they’re much more inclined to offer you a deal on whatever you’re buying!
3. Avoid the extended warranty!
Insurance (in general terms) is the act of transferring risk – the more people that pool money together to help mitigate risk (buy insurance), then the lower the cost of the insurance becomes.
The reason to avoid the extended warranties is because the cost you’re paying to cover your item also includes: commissions paid to the retail store, overhead for the insurance company (wages for employees, building costs, utilities, etc), and some profit for the insurance company as well.
Sure, you may be in the miniscule percentage of buyers that has their item break down on them, but the reality is that it’s unlikely.
If it was likely for your item to break down, then the insurance wouldn’t be available because it wouldn’t be a profitable endeavor for the insurance company (and they’d be out of business).
Whenever you’re buying something that has a large price tag, you should develop a process that you think through before buying it!
Always pay in cash, get a deal, and make sure you actually need everything you’re paying for.
We live in a decidedly credit-centric culture. Whip out cash to pay for $200 in groceries and watch the funny looks from the other customers and the disgust from the clerk. It’s almost like they are upset they have to know how to count to run a cash register.
If someone doesn’t have a credit card, everyone wonders what’s wrong, and assumes they have terrible credit. That’s a lousy assumption to make, but it happens. For most of the last two years, I shunned credit cards as much as possible, preferring cash for my daily spending. Spending two years changing my spending habits has made me comfortable enough to use my cards again, both for the convenience and the rewards.
Having a decent card brings some advantages.
Credit cards legally provide fraud protection to consumers. Under U.S. federal law, you are not responsible for more than $50 of fraudulent charges. many card issuers have extended this to $0 liability, meaning you don’t pay a cent if your card is stolen. Trying getting that protection with a wallet full of cash.
The fraud protection makes it easier to shop online, which more people are doing every day. At this point, there is no product you can buy in person that you can’t get online, often cheaper. How would you order something without a credit card? Even the prepaid cards you can buy and fill at a store will often fail during an online transaction because there is no actual person or account associated with the card. The “name as it appears on the card” is a protective feature for the credit card processors and they dislike accepting cards without it.
If you’re going to use a credit card, you need to make a good choice on which credit card to get. There are a few things to check before you apply for a card.
Annual fee. Generally, I am opposed to getting any card with an annual fee, but sometimes, it’s worth it. If, for example, a card provides travel discounts and roadside assistance with its $65 annual fee, you can cancel AAA and save $75 per year. A good rewards plan can balance out the fee, too. I’m using a travel rewards card that has a 2% rewards plan. That’s 2% on every dollar spent, plus discounts on some travel purchases. In a few months, I’ve accumulated $500 of travel rewards for the $65 fee that was waived for the first year. The math works. A card that charges an annual fee without providing services worth several times that fee isn’t worth getting.
Interest rate. This should be a non-issue. You should be paying off you card completely every month. In a perfect world. In the real world, sometimes things come up. In my case, I was surprised with a medical bill for my son that was 4 times larger than my emergency fund. It went on the card. So far, I’ve only had to pay one month’s interest, and I don’t see the balance surviving another month, but it’s nice that I’m not paying a 20% interest rate. Unfortunately, as a response the CARD Act, the days of fixed rate 9.9% cards seems to be over.
Grace period. This is the amount of time you have when the credit card company isn’t charging you interest. Most cards offer a 20-25 day grace period, but still bill monthly. That means that you’ll be paying interest, even if you pay your bill on time. To be safe, you’ll need to either find a card that has a 30 day grace period, or pay your balance off every 15-20 days. Some of the horrible cards don’t offer a grace period of any length. Avoid those.
Activation fees. Avoid these. Always. There’s no card that charges an activation fee that’s worth getting. An activation fee is an early warning sign that you’ll be paying a $200 annual fee and 30% interest in addition to the $150 activation fee.
Other fees. What else does the card charge for? International transactions? ATM fees? Know what you’ll be paying.
Service. Some cards provide some stellar services, include concierge service, roadside assistance, and free travel services. Some of that can more than balance out the fees they charge. My card adds a year to the warranty of any electronics I buy with it, which is great.
Credit cards aren’t always evil, if you use them responsibly. Just be sure you know what you’re paying and what you’re getting.
What’s in your wallet?
Everybody wants their children to do well. I want my kids to grow up without making my mistakes. Here are a few ways to help them avoid debt.
How do you protect your kids’ future finances from the kids themselves?
I just got an email from INGDirect. To celebrate Independence Day, they are having a sweet, sweet sale.
You can:
Take advantage of all of that and you’ll get $2054 in cash or discounts.
Seriously, this deal rocks. If you don’t have an INGDirect account, get one. There are no overdraft fees and no monthly fees.
The sale ends tomorrow at midnight, so hurry.
Last week, when I mentioned that I lost my phone, there was some interest in my self-insurance warranty plan.
The truth is, that’s just one of 14 savings accounts I keep. I find it’s simpler to keep track of my savings goals by moving the money to separate accounts than to track everything in a spreadsheet. This lets me tell how I’m doing at a glance.
I have one account each at two major traditional banks. These savings accounts exist to provide a target for an automatic transfer that eliminates fees on the associated checking accounts. Whenever much money accumulates here, I sweep it out and throw it at my credit card.
I also have 12 accounts at INGDirect. I chose ING because they are extremely convenient and, at least at the time, had a competitive interest rate. Different countries have different banking options.
Here are the rest my accounts:
I also have a couple of monthly line items in Quicken that I haven’t broken into separate accounts, just to provide an overdraft buffer, like our gift budget.
That’s proof that I am over-banked. How about you? How do you track your savings goals?