- Guide to finding cheap airfare: http://su.pr/2pyOIq #
- As part of my effort to improve every part of my life, I have decided to get back in shape. Twelve years ago, I wor… http://su.pr/6HO81g #
- While jogging with my wife a few days ago, we had a conversation that we haven’t had in years. We discussed ou… http://su.pr/2n9hjj #
- In April, my wife and I decided that debt was done. We have hopefully closed that chapter in our lives. I borrowed… http://su.pr/19j98f #
- Arrrgh! Double-posts irritate me. Especially separated by 6 hours. #
- My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income. ~Errol Flynn #
- RT: @ScottATaylor: 11 Ways to Protect Yourself from Identity Theft | Business Pundit http://j.mp/5F7UNq #
- They who are of the opinion that Money will do everything, may very well be suspected to do everything for Money. ~George Savile #
- It is an unfortunate human failing that a full pocketbook often groans more loudly than an empty stomach. ~Franklin Delano Roosevelt #
- The real measure of your wealth is how much you'd be worth if you lost all your money. ~Author Unknown #
- The only reason [many] American families don't own an elephant is that they have never been offered an elephant for [a dollar down]~Mad Mag. #
- I'd like to live as a poor man with lots of money. ~Pablo Picasso #
- Waste your money and you're only out of money, but waste your time and you've lost a part of your life. ~Michael Leboeuf #
- We can tell our values by looking at our checkbook stubs. ~Gloria Steinem #
- There are people who have money and people who are rich. ~Coco Chanel #
- It's good to have [things that money can buy], but…[make] sure that you haven't lost the things that money can't buy. ~George Lorimer #
- The only thing that can console one for being poor is extravagance. ~Oscar Wilde #
- Money will buy you a pretty good dog, but it won't buy the wag of his tail. ~Henry Wheeler Shaw #
- I wish I'd said it first, and I don't even know who did: The only problems that money can solve are money problems. ~Mignon McLaughlin #
- Mnemonic tricks. #
- The Wilbur and Orville Wright Papers http://su.pr/4GAc52 #
- Champagne primer: http://su.pr/1elMS9 #
- Bank of Mom and Dad starts in 15 minutes. The only thing worth watching on SoapNet. http://su.pr/29OX7y #
- @prosperousfool That's normal this time of year, all around the country. Tis the season for violence. Sad. in reply to prosperousfool #
- In the old days a man who saved money was a miser; nowadays he's a wonder. ~Author Unknown #
- Empty pockets never held anyone back. Only empty heads and empty hearts can do that. ~Norman Vincent Peale #
- RT @MattJabs: RT @fcn: What do the FTC disclosure rules mean for bloggers? And what constitutes an endorsement? – http://bit.ly/70DLkE #
- Ordinary riches can be stolen; real riches cannot. In your soul are infinitely precious things that cannot be taken from you. ~Oscar Wilde #
- Today's quotes courtesy of the Quote Garden http://su.pr/7LK8aW #
- RT: @ChristianPF: 5 Ways to Show Love to Your Kids Without Spending a Dollar http://bit.ly/6sNaPF #
- FTC tips for buying, giving, and using gift cards. http://su.pr/1Yqu0S #
- .gov insulation primer. Insulation is one of the easiest ways to save money in a house. http://su.pr/9ow4yX #
- @krystalatwork It's primarily just chat and collaborative writing. I'm waiting for someone more innovative than I to make some stellar. in reply to krystalatwork #
- What a worthless tweet that was. How to tie the perfect tie: http://su.pr/1GcTcB #
- @WellHeeledBlog is giving away 5 copies of Get Financially Naked here http://bit.ly/5kRu44 #
- RT: @BSimple: RT @arohan The 3 Most Neglected Aspects of Preparing for Retirement http://su.pr/2qj4dK #
- RT: @bargainr: Unemployment FELL… 10.2% -> 10% http://bit.ly/5iGUdf #
- RT: @moolanomy: How to Break Bad Money Habits http://bit.ly/7sNYvo (via @InvestorGuide) #
- @ChristianPF is giving away a Lifetime Membership to Dave Ramsey’s Financial Peace University! RT to enter to win… http://su.pr/2lEXIT #
- @The_Weakonomist At $1173, it's only lost 2 weeks. I'd call it popped when it drops back under $1k. in reply to The_Weakonomist #
- @mymoneyshrugged It's worse than it looks. Less than 10% of Obama's Cabinet has ever been in the private sector. http://su.pr/93hspJ in reply to mymoneyshrugged #
- RT: @ScottATaylor: 43 Things Actually Said in Job Interviews http://ff.im/-crKxp #
- @ScottATaylor I'm following you and not being followed back. 🙁 in reply to ScottATaylor #
Delayed Gratification
I work daily to raise my kids to be more financially responsible than I have been. One of the most difficult pieces has been to explain the benefits of delayed gratification to my children. It’s hard enough, as an adult, to take delayed gratification to heart. For a child? It seems to be almost impossible.
My son wants an XBox 360 Elite. Good for him. He wants to renegotiate the terms of his allowance to get it faster. Currently, every other time he gets an allowance paid out, it goes into his bank account, to be mostly untouched. The other times he can do as he pleases with his money. We are enforcing a 50% long term savings plan. Now, with a medium-term goal in mind, he wants to keep all of his money, and only put gift money into the bank account.
Should we let him tap his bank account for a shiny new bauble? It’s been building for a while, so it’s delayed, right? I don’t think that would accomplish much. Like any other 10-year-old, his interests change often.
Should we let him change the terms of our agreement, speeding a medium-term goal at the expense of his long-term savings? My wife and I haven’t had a chance to discuss this, but my initial reaction is not to allow it. His savings has the potential to turn into a decent car in a few years, if he wants. That would be a car he knows he earned.
Last week, when we were at the store, he asked if he could borrow some money to buy a game. I don’t expect him to carry his money around everywhere, so I would have allowed it, if he would have had the money at home. He didn’t. His plan was to pay me what he did have as soon as we got home, then work his butt off for a few days to earn enough extra to pay it back. I won’t be a credit agency for my kids, so I said no. He was disappointed, but, by the time he had earned the money, he no longer wanted the game. I consider that a win, but I don’t know that he learned any lesson other than “Dad’s a jerk.”
Someday, when his life launch is smooth due to a lack of debt-dependence, he’ll look back on these lessons and smile.
I hope.
Fixing Your Credit Report
Sometimes, negative things appear on your credit report. Usually, they do a good job of maintaining
Credit card (Photo credit: Wikipedia)accuracy, but mistakes do happen. The creditor or the reporting agency may screw up, or you may have your identity stolen. If either of these situations are true, you’ll want to correct your credit report, making yourself eligible for lower rates on future credit and, occasionally, lowering the cost of things like auto insurance.
If you throw “credit repair” into Google, you get 18 million hits. Most of those are either outright scams or hopelessly optimistic about what they can accomplish. As I said once before:
Credit Repair is almost always a scam. There are ways to get correct bad information removed from your credit report. If the information is correct, those methods are illegal. There are two legal methods to repair your credit. First, stop generating bad credit. Make your payments on time and eventually, the bad items will fall off. Second, write letters disputing the actual incorrect items on your credit report. There are no quick fixes, and anybody telling you different is flirting with a jail sentence, possibly yours.
There are ways to avoid the scammers.
- Avoid advance-fee credit repair. If they are any good, you will pay for results, not intentions. If they charge beforehand, they are already breaking the law.
- If they insist they can erase the accurate, but negative information, run away.
- If they tell you to dispute everything negative, even the accurate information, run away.
- If they tell you to create a new credit identity, don’t just run, report them. It’s a felony.
Legally, you cannot get valid information removed from your credit report. Anyone who tells you differently is advocating a crime. However, according to the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), you are entitled dispute incorrect records.
To verify the accuracy of your credit report, you need to see it. You can get a free report if your credit is used to deny you for something. This is known as an “adverse action” . You have 60 days from the denial to request the report. You can also get one free report from each of the major credit bureaus each year. I space out these requests so I see my credit report every 4 months.
If there is inaccurate information on your report, dispute it in writing. Send a letter to the credit bureau that is reporting the error. Explain the problem and politely demand an investigation. They will contact the creditor, who usually has 30 days to respond. In the meantime, send a dispute letter to the creditor, along with proof of the inaccuracy. If the investigation does not go your way, the creditor will have to report the dispute status to the credit bureaus in the future.
If the negative items are accurate, there is only one way to get it off of your report legally: Wait. Most negative information can only be reported for 7 years, while a bankruptcy will be reported for 10.
Another way to build your credit in the face of negative credit is to start building good credit to overshadow the bad. Get a credit card. Your first credit card from the bottom of the debt-barrel will probably be a gas card or a store-branded credit card. That’s fine. The main consideration is are low or nonexistent fees. Don’t accept application fees, activation fees, fees for carrying a balance or fees for not carrying a balance. Annual fees are becoming a fact of life, so look for low fees. The interest rate does not matter. You will be paying this card off immediately, meaning no less often that every two weeks. Make sure every penny is paid during the grace period, and make sure your card comes with a grace period. Some don’t. Those are bad cards to get.
There are no quick fixes for bad credit, just good new habits and time.
Investing Basics
If you’ve got your debt paid off, or at least paid down enough to start thinking about using your money for the future instead of the past, it’s time to consider investing your money. If you invest your money, it can grow and start building wealth for you, preferably without your active intervention. Passive income is the best income.
Before you invest in anything, you need to understand the investment completely. In the words of Dave Ramsey, you need to own the investment. There are some questions to ask to get to that level of understanding.
What kind of return can you expect? Will the income come from renters, dividends, or interest? Is the income reliable?
How risky is the investment? Generally, more risk comes with the potential for more income, but that is merely potential. It’s called risk for a reason. If your renters leave, can you make the payments on the property? Will you be financially devastated if the investment tanks? Companies like Standard & Poor’s rate the risk of corporate and municipal bonds.
How liquid is it? How hard will it be to get your money out of the investment? Stocks and bonds can usually be sold at will, but CDs and IRAs almost always come with restrictions. Property requires a seller before you can get your money back out.
Is there a tax advantage? Some investments, like U.S. Savings bonds and municipal bonds, are exempt from varying levels of taxes. Others, such as some IRAs, allow your wealth to grow tax-deferred and can, in some cases, be withdrawn tax-free. Other investments, like a 401k paid out of pre-tax income, can lower your taxable income and actually increase your take-home pay while building your retirement fund. Do you understand the 401k alternatives?
When you are looking at an investment vehicle, make sure it is legitimate. Don’t believe get-rich-quick promises and always back away from high-pressure sales tactics. Always take the time to investigate your investments.
Evil Interest
Everybody with a savings account or almost any form of debt has at least a passing familiarity with interest. How many of you actually know what it is, or even how much you are actually paying?
First, some definitions.
Principal is the term used for the amount of money you have borrowed.
Interest is the rent you pay to have that money. Interest is money-rent, expressed as a percentage of the principal. If you borrow $100 at 10%, you pay approximately $10 in interest. I say “approximately” because it’s just not that simple.
There are two kinds of interest: simple and compound.
Simple interest is called that because it is just that: simple. It’s easy to understand and it’s what most people mistakenly assume they are paying. With simple interest, the interest rate is only applied to the principal, never to the accumulated, or accrued, interest.
For example, if you have borrowed $100 at 10% annual interest, this is what your balance will look like:
- At the time of borrowing the money, you owe $100.
- After 1 year, you owe 10% of the $100, in addition to the original $100: $110.
- After 2 years, you owe 10% of the $100, in addition to the original $100 and year one’s interest: $120.
- After 10 years, you will owe a total of $200.
That’s simple.
On the other hand, in addition to five more fingers, you have compound interest. Compound interest complicates things considerably. With compound interest, interest is applied to the entire balance of what you owe; both the principal and the accrued interest are included in the calculation.
For example, with $100 at 10% compounded annually:
- Year 1: You will owe $100 + 10% of the original $100, or $110
- Year 2: You will owe $110 + 10% of the $110, or $121
- Year 3: You will owe $121 + 10% of the $110, or $133.10
- Year 4: You will owe $131.10 + 10% of the $110, or $144.41
- Year 5: You will owe $144.41 + 10% of the $110, or $158.85
- Year 6: You will owe $158.85+ 10% of the $110, or $174.74
- Year 7: You will owe $174.74 + 10% of the $110, or $192.21
- Year 8: You will owe $192.21 + 10% of the $110, or $211.43
- Year 9: You will owe $211.43 + 10% of the $110, or $232.57
- Year 10: You will owe $232.57 + 10% of the $110, or $255.83
That is a total of $155.83 in interest paid over 10 years, or $15.58 per year, for an effective interest rate of 15.583%.
To throw another twist into the mix, interest is rarely compounded annually. Monthly, or even daily, is much more common. With monthly compounded interest, the annual rate, or APR, is divided by 12 and recalculated every month.
For example, using the same $100 at 10% APR, compounded monthly:
Since the interest rate is compounded monthly, we will be using the monthly periodic rate, which is 10% / 12, or .83%
- Month 1: $100 + .83% of $100 = $100.83
- Month 2: $100.83 + .83% = $101.67
- Month 3: $101.67 + .83% = $102.51
- Month 4: $102.51 + .83% = $103.36
- Month 5: $103.36 + .83% = $104.22
- Month 6: $104.22 + .83% = $105.08
- Month 7: $105.08 + .83% = $105.95
- Month 8: $105.95 + .83% = $106.83
- Month 9: $106.83 + .83% = $107.72
- Month 10: $107.72 + .83% = $108.61
- Month 11: $108.61 + .83% = $109.51
- Month 12: $109.51 + .83% = $110.42
That’s $0.42 more interest paid the first year, and that number will continue to climb each year the interest is compounded.
It gets worse if interest is compounded daily, like most credit cards. If you see “Daily Periodic Rate” anywhere in your agreement, you are getting compounded daily. This same loan, compounded daily instead of monthly will yield $110.51 owed the first year. That $0.51 might not seem like much, but imagine it on a $10,000 credit card, or a $100,000 house! And that’s just the first year. Every year after, the disparity gets bigger.
Edit: The formula for calculating compounding interest is Principal x (1 + rate as a decimal / compounding term)compounding term. So, for $100 at 10% compounded monthly, the formula is 100 x (1 + 0.1 / 12)12
That’s the downside to compounding interest. There is an upside, if you have investments or interest-bearing accounts. If that’s the case, compounding interest is working in your favor.
If you save $100 per week, and manage to get a 10% return on your investment, you will have $331,911 after 20 years(with $104,000 contributed) and $2,784,424 after 40(with $208,000 contributed). That mean you will have tripled your money in 20 years, or vingtupled* it in 40 years.
That’s how you get rich. $100 per week for the rest of your life will leave you with a comfortable retirement, without missing out on life now.
—
* Yes, it’s a real word**. It means a twenty-fold increase.
** No, I did not know that yesterday.
Check Your Bills
Today, I discovered our AOL billing information. Turns out we’ve been paying for dial-up via automatic bill paying that we thought we cancelled in 2000. $1,800 later, we called to cancel. Customer service congratulated us on being loyal members for over 13 years. FML -Jay
- Image by roberthuffstutter via Flickr
I am a huge fan of automating my finances. My paycheck is direct-deposited. My savings are automatically transferred from my checking account to my savings account. Almost every bill I receive regularly is set up as an automatic payment in my bank’s bill-pay system. I even have my debt snowball automated.
The only question left is whether it’s possible to automate too far. Can you automate past the point of benefit, straight into detriment? The primary benefit of automation is knowing that you can’t forget a payment. The other benefit is freeing up your attention. You don’t have to give any focus to paying your bills, freeing you to worry about other things.
The problem with the second benefit is the same as the benefit. If you don’t give your bills any attention, how do you know if there is a problem? If something changes–an extra fee or a mis-keyed payment–you won’t notice because you haven’t been giving the bills any focus.
Sometimes, this means you are paying an extra fee without noticing it. Sometimes, if your due date changes, it can mean late fees. Even if nothing goes wrong, you are missing the opportunity to review what you are paying to ensure your needs are being met as efficiently as possible.
What can you do about it? I put a reminder on my Life Calendar to check my bills each month. I pick one bill each month and try to find a way to save money on it. I review the services to make sure they are what I need and if that doesn’t help, I call and ask for a lower price. If it’s a credit card, I ask for a lower interest rate. For the cable company, I ask if they will match whatever deal they have for new customers.
Every company can do something to keep a loyal customer happy. All you have to do is ask.
Do you automate anything? How do you keep track of it all?
