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We recently had our annual barbecue. (For the purists, I am Minnesotan. Barbecue means “cooked over fire”.) Due to massive scheduling conflicts, it was a bit smaller than normal; only about 20 people came. At least 10 other people RSVP-ed that they were going to make it, but didn’t. Grr.
Naturally, we had food for everyone said they would be there and enough for half of the people who didn’t say anything, since Minnesotans don’t RSVP well. That translates to a lot of leftovers. No problem. After all, leftover ribs are hardly a punishment.
Sunday morning, we woke up to find that our refrigerator was happier at room temperature than the standard “cold”. We didn’t know it at the time, but the defrost unit was borked, so the cold air couldn’t circulate from the freezer to the refrigerator. Bye-bye leftovers. Hello, Mr. Repairman. We needed an excuse to clean out the fridge, anyway, but not at the price of my beautifully seared meat! (Sadness strikes.)
Monday evening, the repairman came out, worked for 2 hours and left a functional refrigerator and a $240 invoice in his wake. Thankfully, we are on the appliance repair plan through the gas company. We pay $26.40 per month to cover repairs to our range, water heater, furnace, drier, sewer main, and refrigerator. The first four items are standard, the final two are options that cost extra.
We originally got on the plan for the sewer main. We had a tree whose roots grew into the main and clogged it every year. A backed-up sewer main is a crappy way to wake up. Getting that snaked to the street cost $200 per year. At the time, without the refrigerator, the plan cost about $12 per month. One $200 call-out more than paid for the plan for the year. That was easy math. Now, our 20 year old refrigerator has been repaired twice in the last year, giving us $500 worth of repairs for $316.80. I would like to take this time to thank all of the people with reliable appliances for subsidizing my repairs.
My furnace, drier, and range are all reasonably new and shouldn’t need repairs any time soon, but the refrigerator and sewer main have paid for the plan themselves, several times over.
Should you get a similar plan? If your covered appliances are more than 4-5 years old, I would consider it. If they are more than 10 years old, I wouldn’t hesitate at all. Repairing quality appliances is cheaper than replacing them, especially when the repair cost is paid monthly and subsidized.
Do you use a service plan?
My son, at 10 years old, is a deal-finder. His first question when he finds something he wants is “How much?”, followed closely by “Can I find it cheaper?” I haven’t-and won’t-introduced him to Craigslist, but he knows to check Amazon and eBay for deals. We’ve been working together to make sure he understands everything he is looking at on eBay, and what he needs to check before he even thinks about asking if he can get it.
 Pricing The first thing I have him check is the price. This is a fast check, and if it doesn’t pass this test, the rest of the checks do not matter. If the price isn’t very competitive, we move on. There are always risks involved with buying online, so I want him to mitigate those risks as much as possible. Pricing can also be easily scanned after you search for an item.
The next thing to check is the shipping cost. I don’t know how many times I’ve seen “Low starting price, no reserve!” in the description only to find a $40 shipping and handling fee on a 2 ounce item. The price is the price + shipping.
 Feedback Next, we look at the seller’s feedback. The feedback rating has a couple of pieces to examine. First, what is the raw score? If it’s under 100, it needs to be examined closer. Is it all buyer feedback? Has the seller sold many items? Is everything from the last few weeks? People just getting into selling sometimes get in over their heads. Other people are pumping up their ratings until they have a lot of items waiting to ship, then disappear with the money. Second, what is the percent positive? Under 95% will never get a sale from me. For ratings between 95% and 97%, I will examine the history. Do they respond to negative feedback? Are the ratings legit? Did they get negative feedback because a buyer was stupid or unrealistic? Did they misjudge their time and sell more items than they could ship in a reasonable time? If that’s the case, did they make good on the auctions? How many items are they selling at this second?
After that, we look at the payment options. If the seller only accepts money orders or Western Union, we move on. Those are scam auctions. Sellers, if you’ve been burned and are scared to get burned again, I’m sorry, but if you only accept the scam payment options, I will consider you a scammer and move on.
Finally, we look at the description. If it doesn’t come with everything needed to use the item(missing power cord, etc.), I want to know. If it doesn’t explicitly state the item is in working condition, the seller will get asked about the condition before we buy. We also look closely to make sure it’s not a “report” or even just a picture of the item.
Following all of those steps, it’s hard to get ripped off. On the rare occasion that the legitimate sellers I’ve dealt with decide to suddenly turn into ripoff-artists, I’ve turned on the Supreme-Ninja Google-Fu, combined with some skip-tracing talent, and convinced them that it’s easier to refund my money than explain to their boss why they’ve been posting on the “Mopeds & Latex” fetish sites while at work. Asking Mommy to pretty-please pass a message about fraud seems to be a working tactic, too. It’s amazing how many people forget that the lines between internet and real life are blurring more, every day.
If sending them a message on every forum they use and every blog they own under several email addresses doesn’t work and getting the real-life people they deal with to pass messages also doesn’t work, I’ll call Paypal and my credit card company to dispute the charges. I only use a credit card online. I never do a checking account transfer through Paypal. I like to have all of the possible options available to me.
My kids are being raised to avoid scams wherever possible. Hopefully, I can teach them to balance the line between skeptical and cynical better than I do.
First, the shameless self-promotion:
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Next, for the part you’re here for…
The Cute War.
Budgeting In the Fun Stuff guest-posted here a few days ago. The post was about her dog. Nicole asserted that her kittens were cuter than BFS’s pug. There is some personal risk involved for me, but my pets are cuter. The proof:
The Best Posts of the Week:
Frugal Dad discusses What to Do When Your Beneficiaries are Minors. We settled this by not making our minor children the beneficiaries. If we both leap off the mortal coil at once, my Dad gets the money. I trust him to take care of my kids with it. No, Dad, you can not work on my brakes.
Marko found a fascinating photo series of WWII war photos overlaying modern pictures of the same location. It’s kind of creepy in places.
My favorite dinosaur has a child has been reclassified as a child itself, not an actual dinosaur. That makes youthful me very sad.
Finally, a list of the carnivals I’ve participated in:
Both the Carnival of Personal Finance and the Yakezie Carnival included Selling Your Home: For Sale by Owner.
The Festival of Frugality has It’s Better to Buy a House than Rent.
If I missed a carnival, please let me know.
As evil as credit cards are, most adults have one. Have you ever wondered what percentage of those people know the details of their credit card agreement, or even what all of the terms mean?
Here’s a quick list of the terms and their definitions.
- Average daily balance - This is the balance most card companies use to calculate your interest. They add the balance each day and divide it by the number of days in the billing cycle. This number times the interest rate is (roughly) the interest you have to pay.
- Annual Percentage Rate(APR) - This is the interest rate expressed as the interest accrued in one year. The actual calculation is much more complicated.
- Balance transfer - If you’ve ever paid your VISA with your Mastercard, you’ve done a balance transfer. These often have a great introductory rate and a lousy permanent rate.
- Cardholder agreement - This is the contract that defines all of the terms of your card: interest, default consequences, payment terms, and everything else. You should never sign for a card without reading and understanding this document.
- Charge-back - If you dispute a charge on your card, the issuer may issue a charge-back, and take the money back from the merchant to return to you.
- Credit line - This is the amount you are able to charge. You should fear this number and stay as far away from it as possible.
- Default - When you stop paying your card, you become delinquent. If it goes on too long, you will be in default. Read: screwed. This is when they crank your interest rate to the sky and cut your limit to match your balance. It’s also the point that affects your credit rating.
- Due date - This is the day which, if you miss it, will cause you to acquire an extra $15-39 fee for the privilege of misreading your calendar. Always pay your bill before this date.
- Finance charge - This is the actual interest accrued for the billing period. This is money you are paying for the privilege of borrowing the rest of the money. Next month, you’ll pay a finance charge on this money, too. Yay!
- Grace period - For most cards worth owning, you get 20-25 days before the issuer starts charging interest. The best way to manage your card is to pay it off completely twice a month. That way, you’ll never use up your grace period and never pay a cent of interest.
- Introductory rate - Many cards will offer a crazy-low interest rate for six months to lure you in…like crack. They’ll get you hooked, then raise the rate and force you to charge new toys at the higher rate. Ideally, you’ll never carry a balance, so you’ll never have to worry about the introductory rate.
- Minimum payment - If debt has an evil heart, this is it. If you pay nothing but the minimum required payment, you will be in debt for the rest of your life. Always pay more, even if it’s just an extra $20.
- Over-the-limit fee - If you ignore your credit limit and keep spending, you’ll get hit with another $15-39 fee for the privilege of not controlling your irresponsible impulses.
- Periodic rate - This is your APR expressed in relation to a specific time frame, usually as a daily periodic rate. For example, if your interest rate is 18%, your daily periodic rate is 18/365 or 0.0493%
- Pre-approved - When you get a pre-approved card, you are actually just getting a notice that you have been pre-screened as not being too much of a deadbeat for that particular card. You will still have a full credit check before the card is issued.
- Secured card - If you’ve got lousy credit, sometimes your only choice to repair it is to get a prepaid card. You give the company $200 and they will let you charge $200. They are almost always loaded with fees and are usually a very bad deal, but if it’s the only game in town…?
- Universal default - Sometimes, if you default on one card, every other card you have decides to gang up on you, because your “risk profile” has changed. Yet more proof of the evil that is credit-card debt.
- Variable interest rate - Some card tie your rate to the Prime interest rate, so when that changes, your rate does, too.
Did I miss any terms?
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